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2013年12月15日星期日
Patek Philippe ref. 5170J: a new classic
In developing the new chronograph caliber CH 29-535 PS equipping the reference 5170J Patek Philippe not only wanted to have a classic chronograph movement with column wheel , horizontal clutch and manual winding entirely designed and produced in the factory .
The new movement was also surpass its predecessor, the CH 27-70 PS caliber , based on a draft New Lémania completely reworked and optimized by Patek Philippe , which has emerged as one of the finest chronograph movements of all time .
Presented for the first time in November 2009 at the launch of the Patek Philippe Ladies First Chronograph model, the new caliber CH 29-535 PS has attracted great interest from many specialized media , proving that it met the requirements highest .
Patek Philippe has spared no effort to ensure its new classic wrist chronograph exceeds all expectations . The development of this caliber CH 29-535 PS lasted more than five years and has gone through several stages that led parallel to the creation of other chronographs movements.
In 2005 , the factory introduced the caliber CHR 27-525 PS movement chronograph wheel and the world's thinnest columns (5.25 mm thick ), the new caliber CH 29-535 PS has inherited its patented tooth profiles on the wheels of the chronograph.
In 2006 was launched the Annual Calendar Chronograph with automatic winding and vertical disc clutch , which provided other vital knowledge on energy flows and issues amplitude in chronographs. But it took another five patented innovations to bring to perfection the new caliber CH 29-535 PS .
The caliber CH 29-535 PS works with a column wheel control with , as it should be at Patek Philippe , a polished hat. This element hiding from view the sophisticated construction of the column wheel , used to maintain position in the end of the clutch in case of violent shock rocker , so it contributes to the safety of operation, which has priority at Patek Philippe .
The movement has a large central seconds hand , small seconds counter and an instant 30 minutes. Its large balance Gyromax four arm oscillates at a frequency of 4 Hz ( 28,800 vibrations / hour). The power reserve is 65 hours (over 58 hours chronograph mode is engaged ) and a system " second stop " for precise time setting .
If the caliber CH 29-535 PS is based on a conventional architecture with column wheel and horizontal clutch sprocket system , it is distinguished by six patented innovations which captures the spirit of the invention manufacture Geneva .
1 . Tooth profiles optimized
Profiles of exclusive teeth eliminate the risk of needle jump or recoil during startup, avoiding any quaver of the chronograph hand , increase the efficiency in energy transmission and reduce mechanical wear .
2 . Best penetration adjustment gears
The adjustment of the penetration of the gears between the wheel and the chronograph wheel clutch is performed using a large " eccentric cap " placed on the column wheel and of the spout coupling lever is which allows more precise adjustment.
3 . Better synchronization clutch - brake
The synchronization between the coupling lever and the blocker ( braking ) is done directly by means of a finger on the rocker added - thus avoiding the detour by the complex column wheel .
4 . Openwork cam minute counter
Cam minute counter has been provided with an indentation for damping shocks during reset.
5 . Hammers reset Self-adjusting
This system improves the security and reliability of the mechanism .
6 . Pivoting hammers " between stones"
Designers have made two hammers ( seconds and minutes) independent , making the pivot freely on the same axis between stones , each hammer and comes up against its respective " heart " with its own spring . This ensures a precise adjustment of the height of the hammers , and it also improves the same pivoting hammers .
The caliber CH 29-535 PS also presents a number of technical features contributing to the same concern for functionality and performance . It is distinguished by its instantaneous counter 30 minutes , significantly more complex to implement than traditional counters towed or semi- instantaneous.
This sophisticated construction, where the small minute hand makes her jump in a split second , ensures greater precision and clarity of reading. Another example : the wheel " on field " ( drive wheel chronograph ) is integrated directly into the wheel here , rather than assembled by the watchmaker .
True to the tradition Patek Philippe caliber CH 29-535 PS is a new flagship aesthetic and craftsmanship . It is distinguished by its elegant shape parts and bridges the old , carefully chamfered , polished and adorned with Côtes de Genève . The lower surfaces were finely finished and in numerous lengthy operations , mostly manual .
In accordance with the Patek Philippe , manufacturing took care that this decoration work is never done at the expense of functional qualities. Coupling lever has a classic S-shape and it has to the image of all supplies of steel , chamfered edges and polished flanks stretched and carefully smoothed surfaces. Like all Patek Philippe movements , the teeth of pinion leaves were polished one by one by hand on a stack of hardwood to optimize energy transfer and reduce wear.
The shape and arrangement of bridges have been defined to ensure the most efficient energy transmission possible, with a minimum of friction from the barrel to the regulating organ - focusing performance, accuracy and driving stability . Each component of the motion was submitted to the Monitoring Committee of Patek Philippe to verify its compliance with the technical and aesthetic criteria extraordinary Regulation . For proof of this excellence, each caliber CH 29-535 PS present on the bridge minute counter golden engraving of Patek Philippe , a shield with two intertwined initials PP .
A movement with many hallmarks of the great watchmaking deserved dressing honoring , too, in the classical tradition. This homage to the past begins on the new Patek Philippe 5170J reference case with round 18K yellow gold with a diameter of 39 mm . Its finesse and sober and refined style inspired by the same aesthetic principles that allowed Patek Philippe in 1932 to create the legendary Calatrava - became the archetype of the round for men wristwatch.
The design, based primarily on research functionality , received thereby timeless elegance. The strap fasteners stand smoothly curves of the middle , giving the watch perfectly balanced and aerodynamic lines. The two chronograph pushers at 2 and 4 o'clock are characterized by a rectangular thin profile that was already there 70 years , a sign of recognition of Patek Philippe wrist chronographs .
The crown , which is essential on a hand-wound watch , has a fluted profile for easy handling and dimensioned to hold it firmly between the fingers without discomfort in the wrist. The manufacture of the housing is made the traditional way by stamping cold pressure of several tons , from small solid gold bars and by means of stamps to the high-precision cutting.
After each stamping phase, middles in an oven to remove the tension in the material. When the boxes are gross loans begins the long work deburring and polishing, in consecutive steps, which will enable artisans, using ever finer tools to give the case its incomparable brilliance . From that moment on, the housings are not handled with gloves to avoid undesirable trace.
The dial also presents a face to the timeless elegance , with extreme simplicity and readability. Opaline silver background is adorned with fine applique indexes in 18K yellow gold and two Roman numerals at 12 and 6 o'clock , also in yellow gold , the other directions are printed in black . The scale of pulsometer placed at the periphery of the dial , with its reference to " graduated to 15 pulsations ," recalls the tradition of the famous " doctor's watches ."
Timer railroad placed right side is punctuated by Breguet numerals slightly flattened . Small seconds at 9 o'clock and 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock a small crease , their position slightly below the center of the dial offers a perfect balance with the inscriptions occupying the upper part . The hour , minute and seconds civil time are matched with yellow gold numerals and indexes , while the needles ensuring the chronograph functions are distinguished by their black color - black oxidized to the central hand with counterweight , yellow gold black nickel for the speedometer needle instant 30 minutes.
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